Homeview’s Window & Door Learning Center

We’ve prepared this helpful guide to introduce you to the terms and concepts of energy-efficient doors and windows. The more you know, the better we’ll look!

ABOUT REPLACEMENT WINDOWS

If you are thinking about replacing your Maryland home’s windows, ask these questions first:

• Is your home too cold in the winter and too warm in the summer?
• Did you pay too much to heat your home last year?
• Do you get a chill every time you walk past your home’s windows?
• Are your windows difficult to open or close?
• Does the glass in your windows rattle in the wind?
• Do your curtains billow and blow in the breeze – even when your windows are closed?

If the answer to any of these questions is “YES,” it is time to consider replacing your home’s windows with new, more energy-efficient windows.

New windows can provide a beautiful “makeover” to your home, increase it’s value, and improve its “curb appeal”. But more importantly, new windows provide these important benefits:

• Modern windows make your life much easier. Modern day mechanical components mean windows don’t stick or squeak. Materials like vinyl/thermal frames make window maintenance (like scraping, painting, caulking) a thing of the past. Better grade windows tilt-in for easy, inside cleaning of the outside glass. No more worrying about climbing up rickety ladders.

• Modern windows are much safer than in years past. Superior locks are screwed down into the frame, making these locks some of the strongest ever manufactured. Innovative ideas like built-in safety latches allow the window to be opened for ventilation yet still remain locked for greater security.

• Modern windows are much more cost effective. New insulated glass technology, low-e glass coatings, and improved frame construction cut energy costs dramatically. Your Maryland home is more comfortable while actually costing less to heat and cool.

• They look great! Today’s windows come in a variety of shapes, styles and colors – bay windows, large bow windows, sliding windows, traditional double hung windows (up and down movement), casement crank-out windows. All of these improve the looks, design and style of any home. You will be proud to show-off your new windows Maryland and never be embarrassed about them again.

HOW NEW WINDOWS CAN SAVE YOU MONEY

Windows and doors are the single biggest source of home energy loss. Studies have shown that up to 40% of your home’s energy loss occurs through convection, outside air infiltration, conduction and radiation through your windows and doors. At a time when energy costs are a major part of your home budget, becoming more energy efficient is important. Modern windows Maryland are designed to be more thermally efficient and can keep your home warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

LOOK FOR THE NFRC LABEL

Every replacement window Maryland that Homeview installs comes with an energy rating label from the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC), an independent testing laboratory. This label is your way of knowing that the window you are buying has been tested and rated for energy efficiency. The NFRC runs laboratory tests to measure several key factors that affect a window’s performance.

• U-Factor

U-factor measures how well a product prevents heat from escaping. The rate of heat loss is indicated in terms of the U-factor (U-value) of a window assembly. U-Factor ratings generally fall between 0.20 and 1.20. The insulating value is indicated by the R-value which is the inverse of the U-value. The lower the U-value, the greater a window’s resistance to heat flow and the better its insulating value.

• Solar Heat Gain Coefficient

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures how well a product blocks heat caused by sunlight. The SHGC is the fraction of incident solar radiation admitted through a window and absorbed and subsequently released inward. SHGC is expressed as a number between 0 and 1. The lower a window’s solar heat gain coefficient, the less solar heat it transmits.

• Visible Transmittance

Visible Transmittance (VT) measures how much light comes through a product. The visible transmittance is an optical property that indicates the amount of visible light transmitted. VT is expressed as a number between 0 and 1. The higher the VT, the more light is transmitted.

· Air Leakage*
Air Leakage (AL) is indicated by an air leakage rating expressed as the equivalent cubic feet of air passing through a square foot of window area (cfm/sq ft). Heat loss and gain occur by infiltration through cracks in the window assembly. The lower the AL, the less air will pass through cracks in the window assembly.

· Condensation Resistance*
Condensation Resistance (CR) measures the ability of a product to resist the formation of condensation on the interior surface of that product. The higher the CR rating, the better that product is at resisting condensation formation. While this rating cannot predict condensation, it can provide a credible method of comparing the potential of various products for condensation formation. CR is expressed as a number between 0 and 100.

*This rating is optional and manufacturers can choose not to include it.

GETTING THE BEST WINDOWS AT THE BEST PRICE.

Some contractors try to cut corners. Windows vary greatly in quality. Do not be content with a “Big Box” or “$169” replacement window. Often, these are “builder grade” quality, which is a standard lower than what you want in your Maryland home or Pennsylvania home. Here’s what to look for:

1. We recommend you only consider purchasing a window with an insulated glass package. This means that there are two or three panes of glass instead of just one. These windows offer the greatest savings on heating and cooling costs and dramatically reduce noise.

2. Some contractors try to save money (for themselves) by selling windows with inferior glass. This inexpensive glass is rolled over steel bars as it’s manufactured. This causes a slight wavy distortion in the glass and creates small pores, pits, and other imperfections. To avoid these problems, choose a window made from floated glass. During manufacture, the glass is floated on a bed of liquid tin, creating a much smoother, clearer finish. In addition, we recommend having a special coating applied to the glass called “low-E,” which stands for Low Emissivity. This clear coating reflects unwanted summer heat without affecting visibility (no tinting). This can dramatically decrease your energy costs. Low-E glass will also prevent fading of carpeting, fabrics, and drapes.

3. Many cheaper insulated windows have a metal spacer separating the two panes of glass. These are prone to “seal failure” and allow unwanted cold into your home. Choose a window with a “Warm-Edge” spacer. This spacer, made from special alloys and mastic compounds, provides maximum comfort and prevents seal failure. We also recommend that the space between the two panes of glass be filled with an inert gas like argon. This helps the window make your home even more comfortable by further keeping out the heat and cold.

4. Some contractors will try to save a few pennies by installing standard sized windows and trying to make them fit into your window openings. These windows, purchased from a building supply or lumberyard, are not a good value. Since the window size is fixed the home has to be altered. This can result in windows with filler on the sides or tops. The best way to ensure a precise fit and airtight installation is to custom make the window to the proper dimensions. You may think this sounds expensive. In actuality, it doesn’t cost much more to have a custom made window than to have a standard sized one. Plus, you’re assured of a perfect fit.

5. You can buy the best windows in the world, but they will not perform well if they are installed improperly. Windows need to be installed plumb (straight up and down) and square. The area around the window and the old weight boxes need to be filled with insulation, so cold air doesn’t blow around your new windows. Insulation is only part of the job, the other part in sealant. Some contractors will use cheap latex caulking. The best way to seal is with construction grade Silicone on the exterior work and paintable Butyl for the interior work. It’s OK if your contractor re-uses the interior moldings, it is the best way to match the style of you home, but requires extra time and care.

6. Some contractors shop around for windows and sell whatever brand has the best price this week. Look for a contractor with a long track record with a reliable manufacturer – like Homeview – and with installers who are factory certified. That way you know your manufacturer’s warranty will be honored.

7. Finally, a good contractor will finish the job properly. The exterior trim around your windows should be finished with custom capping, leaving it clean and neat. And your home’s interior and exterior should be left spotless.

ABOUT REPLACEMENT DOORS

Replacing the entry door in your home is an important consideration for both the look and functionality of your home. Before shopping for a new door and a contractor in the Maryland area to install it, it is important to learn as much as you can about Maryland doors.

Homeowners have discovered that adding new doors Maryland can improve energy efficiency, protect from the elements and add security to their home and family. Even adding the latest designs in French doors, sliding glass and patio doors can increase the value of your home while bolstering security.

Types of Doors

Doors today are made of many different materials, each with its own benefits and drawbacks.

Solid Wood Doors
A solid wood door looks great but can be expensive. In addition to their beauty, solid wood doors are sturdy and durable. Custom built solid wood doors can take up to 10 weeks to be delivered. Wood doors require maintenance including scraping and painting every few years.

Stock Wood Doors
These doors look similar to solid wood, but their outer layers are actually a wood veneer over an engineered wood core. Stock wood doors cost less than a solid wood door and provide good insulation. They are also readily available if your home has a standard size door opening. For maximum durability, make sure you choose a stock wood door with the thickest veneer available.

Fiberglass-Composite Doors
Although made of fiberglass, these doors are designed to look just like wood doors, and they do! Fiberglass-composite doors require no maintenance and can stand up to the harshest weather. And, they’re reasonably priced. A great alternative to wood doors.

Aluminum Doors
Aluminum doors have many of the same benefits as fiberglass, including durability and no maintenance. They may even last longer than fiberglass or wood doors. But they also cost significantly more that fiberglass.

Steel Doors
A steel door is a good choice if security is your priority. The doors maryland themselves are the least expensive of the various types of doors, although the cost of the frame and hardware can cancel out most or all of the savings. Steel doors are also extremely durable, but aesthetically they lag behind the other materials.

 

Do Your Doors Need to Be Replaced?
There are three main ways to tell if you need to replace your Maryland doors:

• Function – Does the door open properly? Does it stick? Does the latch not catch properly?
• Condition – An exterior door is subject to all weather conditions. Wind, rain, cold, snow and ice all take a toll. Not to mention everyday wear and tear. If your doors are simply tired and worn it may be time for a new one.
• Style – If you have made home renovations like new siding, windows or paint color, your old door may no longer look “right” and needs to be replaced.

Parts of a Door

When looking for a replacement door it helps to know the terms you may encounter:

• bottom rail – level piece of wood or steel at the bottom of the door
• cornice – protruding molding that rests horizontally across the very top of the door opening, often decorative
• hanging stile – vertical part of the door to which the hinges are attached
• header – level frame part surrounding the upper part of the door opening
• hinge – cylindrical metal flange that joins the door to the frame and allows the door to swing open and closed
• jamb – protruding part of the door frame on each side of the opening
• lock – device mounted inside the door allowing it to be locked using a key or deadbolt
• lock rail – level piece of wood or steel in the middle of the door
• middle panel – long, narrow panel placed horizontally across door
• mullion – vertical piece of wood or steel joining the top and lock rails
• panel – flat surface on the door that is often recessed
• shutting stile – vertical part of the door where the lock and doorknob are mounted
• threshold – the surface forming the bottom part of the opening
• top rail – level piece of wood or steel at the top of the door
• weather strip – sloped strip of wood or aluminum, usually located at the top of the door, that channels water away from the door

Don’t Forget the Frame

In many cases, the door frame must be replaced with the door. The frame, also called the casing or jamb, is the encasement for the door opening, onto which the door is hung. Often you can purchase a new door and casing as a unit. The door frame is exposed to the same elements as the door, so make sure your frame is strong enough to provide the support and durability you need for many years of service in our region’s weather.

Get a FREE Quote

Call Homeview Contractors today at 800-729-9701 to schedule a FREE in-home consultation and estimate for your next home improvement project.